A tutorial on how to cling to a flying trapeze, every fibre at breaking point while trying to postpone the inevitable fall.
Small, busty, doe-eyed Mason Ho courts danger and adventure in Fiji!
More exciting than black cherry melon tips moving in time to a funky drumbeat.
John John Florence, better than all those other horned-up lunkheads on tour.
Described as being “extremely intelligent and extremely capable and magnificent when angry."
Dane in Hawaii, with pals, essential…
"The guy’s got a big mouth and never stops whining about the WSL. Let’s see that dude step up!"
Come smell the glue and chemically migrate to a forbidden world!
An endless treasure and battlefield…
"I notice a change, in my short time of paying attention to the weather where I live, 20 or so years, and that is alarming."
But only a disdainful pinprick! Surfs first South African winter in fourteen years…
"Even when the conditions are shit, riding waves is the best thing in the world," says Dane.
Daddy-hood, the Olympic thing, banged up knee, the compelling and perennial joys of a patriarchal monogamous marriage etc.
Surfing's future flicks on the lights…
Courage, intelligence and absolute honesty!
A very good chance to contrast and compare with newly minted, and almost retired, world champ Gabriel Medina.